Tuesday, August 11, 2015

Climbing Mt Ouray: Almost a 14er

Mt Ouray sits at the southern reaches of the Sawatch Range and is visible from many places in Salida and the Arkansas River Valley.   Ouray sits about 14 miles from Mt Shavano, the closest peak with a higher elevation.  Because of its isolation, Ouray dominates the southern Sawatch Range.  From Salida you can see Ouray's most impressive feature, a large cirque called the Devils Armchair.

Ouray has always been inviting but I never climbed it.  Last week I mountain biked up Marshall Pass.  The ride up the pass travels just below Ouray and offers great views of the mountain.  The views of the mountain during the ride put Ouray to the top of my "to hike" list.  I got in touch with my friend Drew Petersen, who climbed Ouray before to see he if was up for another climb.  That was Monday. On Wednesday, July 29th we set out for Mt Ouray.

Looking into the Devil's Armchair of
Mt Ouray from Marshall Pass Road
Mt Ouray doesn't have any formal trails to its summit.  There are a few herd paths that can be followed intermittently to the peak.  We chose to climb from the Marshall Pass trailhead.  Climbing from Marshall Pass appealed to me.  My last few hikes were all long mileage affairs traveling 15+ miles and climbing over 6000 vertical feet.  Ouray from Marshall Pass begins at over 10800' and gains a modest 3000 feet with less than 8 miles of travel roundtrip.  Still a solid outing, but a break from the more ambitious hikes I recently took.

From Marshall Pass, our hike began traveling north on the CDT.  We followed a doubletrack section of the CDT a short distance before reaching the remains of an old trail that heads uphill towards Ouray.  The old trail quickly fades to more of a herd path and travels through open woods with small cairns occasionally marking the way.  This herd path is relatively easy to follow, although it does fade at places.  Usually another section of herd path or a cairn comes into view to confirm the route.  Even if the path is lost, route finding is straightforward.  Heading directly uphill will bring you to treeline very quickly.

At treeline the route becomes less distinct.  Leaving the herd path from the woods, there are a few small cairns that can be easily missed.  Even without cairns, the route is pretty straightforward. Climb uphill and gain the ridge.  Once on the ridge, follow it uphill and you will reach the summit.

Looking toward Mt Aetna and Taylor just above treeline
Looking back down toward treeline
Alpine sunflowers
Grassy slope below Ouray's ridge
Once on the ridge, our route was easy to follow.  In the grassy sections along the ridge, there are stretches of herd path to occasionally confirm the route.  While grassier in the beginning, climbing the ridge is a solid class 2 affair traveling mostly over rock.  Sticking to the ridge proper can intensify the route to a class 2+ scramble, but for the most part, easy route finding allows you to bypass most of the trickier sections.  The sun was our biggest obstacle on our climb.  We were hiking relatively early and the sun was just barely over the ridge, at a bad angle for visibility.

On the ridge with the summit in the distance
Short stretch of grass before hitting the rock
Early morning sun peaking over the summit
Looking toward Chipeta
More wildflowers
Last stretch before the summit
We made it made it to the summit in just over 2 hours.  There are conflicting reports on the actual distance from Marshall Pass to the summit, but it is somewhere between 3 and 4 miles.  From the summit the views are far reaching.  Directly across the valley to the east stands the Sangre de Cristo Ranges and stretches far to the south to the Blanca group of 14ers.  Pikes Peak is visible far to the northeast.  It seems that the entire 80 mile length of the Sawatch Range is visible.  Closer to Ouray, 14ers Shavano and Tabguache are the dominant Sawatch peaks with high 13ers Aetna and Taylor next to them.  The Continental Divide sits just below Ouray and much of the divide is visible well beyond Monarch Pass to the north.  The higher summits of the eastern San Juans are visible to the west with Uncompahgre and San Luis Peaks easily identifiable.  To the south, 13er Antora Peak and its neighbors round off the southern end of the Sawatch Range.  Looking toward Salida, the town is visible some 7000 feet below with the "S" on S Mountain just barely visible.

North over Chipeta
South toward Antora Peak
The scenery right around the mountain is quite nice.  The most dominant feature is the huge cirque called the Devil's Armchair.  Two large ridges surround the large cirque with the summit making up the back of the cirque.  Climbing the peak is possible from the Devil's Armchair side of the mountain and will probably be a hike for another day.  Below the summit, to the north lies a large alpine meadow of the Little Cochepeta basin between Ouray and Chipeta Mtn.  Another large meadow is to south of the peak just above Marshall Pass.

Looking over the north arm of the Devil's Armchair
The south arm
For anyone interested, here is a quick lesson on the names of the mountains, Mt Ouray was named after Chief Ouray, a Ute chief.  Just to the north lies Chipeta Mtn.  Chipeta was Chief Ouray's second wife.  Just beyond Chipeta Mtn stands Pahlone Peak, named after the couple's son.

We spent about a half hour on the summit before our descent.  We made fairly quick time heading down the mountain.  We stuck closer to the ridge proper as we descended.  Staying on the crest of the ridge we descended a band of rock that may of been a short descent over class 3 rock.  The rougher descent can be easily bypassed however.  We made relatively quick time on our descent.

Looking back down the ridge before our descent
Looking back up the section of class 3
A little further down the ridge
A small bump along the ridge
View toward Marshall Pass with Antora in the distance
While descending, one thing of interest caught my eye.  Looking down into the Little Cochetopa basin I could see wildlife.  Except it wasn't wildlife, it was cattle.  It isn't uncommon to see livestock grazing on public land in the west.  This seemed like an odd area to see grazing cattle however.  The basin is quite lush and boggy.  It's also well above timberline in a fairly deep basin.  I don't think the cowboys rounding up these cattle would have an easy time bringing the cattle back to the valley given there location.  As we descended we watched the herd of at least 30 head moving around.  At one point, nearly the entire herd was lined up side by side drinking from a small pond in the basin.

Cattle grazing far below
(Click on the photo for a better view)
We left the ridge for good and headed down the grassy slope before reaching the trees.  We were a little off course initially to find the herd path.  We backtracked a little bit and found our route into the trees.  The trees are sparse enough that travel wouldn't have been too difficult to bushwack but we wanted to find the herd path for a quicker descent.  We made it back to the trailhead in less than 5 hours including our time on the summit.

Descending below the ridge
Small section of rock below the ridge
One last look to the north toward Aetna and Taylor
before entering the trees
Mt Ouray is a worthwhile summit to visit.  Because it stands just 29 feet below that magic 14,000 foot mark, it sees a fraction of the traffic as the 14ers just a few miles to the north in the Sawatch Range.  Drew who hiked Ouray a few times,  was surprised to see another group on the summit during a midweek hike.  There is no official trail to the summit and this may also keep more casual hikers from climbing it.  Even without trails, the route finding is straightforward. Ouray offers great views, few people, and a solid climb without an epic effort and I recommend visiting this relatively quiet summit.

Tomcat on the descent

Sunday, August 2, 2015

Mountain Biking Marshall Pass and Starvation Creek

While I have hit the trails on my bike the last month, I haven't ridden anywhere new since I rode Hartman Rocks in Gunnison well over a month ago.  I have never been to the Marshall Pass area of the Continental Divide and was interested in checking it out.  There are many riding opportunities in the area, ranging from easy dirt roads to more difficult singletrack.  Salida's most renowned ride, the Monarch Crest passes over Marshall Pass as well.  I didn't have time to ride the Crest, so I sought out another ride in the Marshall Pass area.  After a quick glance at a map, I settled on a loop that climbed the Marshall Pass Road and returned on the Starvation Creek Trail.

My ride began at the Shirley Site trailhead at 8700' in elevation.  From the trailhead, the route to the Continental Divide at Marshall Pass follows FS Road 200.  This dirt road travels over 12 miles and climbs more than 2000 feet before reaching Marshall Pass.  Despite the elevation gain, the riding is pretty tame along FS 200.  The road was at one time an old railroad grade on the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad.  In the days of steam powered trains, the grades couldn't be to steep.  As a result the route to Marshall Pass climbs at a gradual 3% grade.  Not only is the climbing gradual, but the road is well maintained and generally pretty smooth.  Any passenger car can make the climb without worry of  ground clearance.  I made the climb to the pass in under 90 minutes, spinning casually up the dirt road without too much exertion.

The northern Sangre de Cristos come
into view early on the ride
O'Haver Lake with Antora Peak and Sheep Mtn in the distance
O'Haver Lake
Even though the entire route stays below treeline, there is plenty of opportunity to enjoy the scenery.  Not too far from the start, the road passes through clearings and meadows that open up the views.  There are several chances to look across the valley to the long spine of the Sangre de Cristo Range.  Numerous other alpine peaks stand just to the south with 13er Antora Peak being the most prominent.  The most dominating view from the road is of 13,971' Mt. Ouray.  Much of the ride up to the pass, Mt Ouray looms just ahead.  From the road, you travel directly toward Ouray's giant cirque referred to as the Devil's Armchair.  Where the road travels through the woods, much of the route is lined with large groves of aspens much of the way.

Easy riding on Marshall Pass Road with
Mt. Ouray in the distance
Mt Ouray and the Devil's Armchair
Plenty of aspens along the way to Marshall Pass
Clouds closing in on Mt Ouray
Grazing cattle near Marshall Pass
At Marshall Pass, the road reaches a parking area and joins the Continental Divide Trail.  I didn't stay on the CDT long before turning onto the four wheel drive Poncha Creek Road.  I stayed on the Poncha Creek Road only a short distance before turning onto the Starvation Creek Trail.

Start of Starvation Creek Trail
The Starvation Creek Trail begins climbing on a doubletrack jeep road.  It follows the doubletrack for nearly 1.5 miles before turning off the jeep road onto singletrack.  It's along this jeep road that my ride reached its high point at 11,189'.  At the start of the jeep road, the route enters deeper woods that clearly sees less travel than my route up to that point.  The road doesn't stay in the woods too long though before reaching meadows with good views toward the Sangre de Cristos and southern reaches of the Sawatch Range.

Startvation Creek Road doesn't stay smooth very long
Antora Peak and Sheep Mtn.
Clouds starting obscure the Sangres
I initially missed the turn off to the singletrack section of the Starvation Creek Trail.  The jeep road ended at a vista on a small knob.  I could see the trail below however.  I backtracked a short distance when I came across another rider.  We consulted a map and could see that we missed our turn.  I could see a signpost not to far ahead.  At the signpost, there wasn't any tread, but the trail was visible just ahead.   The signpost didn't have a sign on it, but it was clear that this was the Starvation Creek Trail.

The Starvation Creek singletrack is  just below in the meadow
One last look at Mt Ouray
This singletrack portion of the Starvation Creek Trail was the start of the most fun riding.  The singletrack section runs less than 5 miles but drops around 2000 vertical feet.  The initial drop from the jeep road travels through a grassy meadow but quickly enters the woods.  The trail is primitive at times and travels through thick forest giving the feel of wilderness.  The trail is well defined, but sections are tight with vegetation encroaching the trail.  Much of the trail travels through a steep sidecut with very narrow tread.  It's easy to gain speed and there is little room for error through the sidecut.  Veering just slightly off your line can lead to trouble.  The trail flows quite nicely much of the way despite narrow sections.  At times the creek is just a couple feet beside the trail.  There are a couple of easy crossings of the creek as well. While the riding is only moderately technical for the most part, there are some sections with roots and rocks and one stretch through a rough patch of talus.  My only complaint is that I wish the trail was longer.

Dropping into the singletrack on the Starvation Creek Trail
Reentering the forest on nice singletrack
Overgrown section of trail
At times the trail was just a few feet from the Creek
Crossing a stretch of talus
Cruising through the aspens

The Starvation Creek Valley is visible here
Riding through a meadow near the end
of the Starvation Creek Trail
At the lower end of the trail, I popped back out on the Poncha Creek Road.  Once on the road, it was just 3 miles of quick, downhill back to the trailhead on mostly four wheel drive road.

This route is accessible from the Monarch Crest, one of the most popular rides in Colorado.  There are several descents from the Continental Divide and the Monarch Crest that are more popular than Starvation Creek.  I haven't ridden them yet, so I can't compare them to Starvation Creek.  I do know Starvation Creek see quite a bit less traffic than many of the other routes.  I have to say that Starvation Creek was a blast to ride.  I will definitely check out the other trails at some point and give a comparison.

Although the weather became more dreary as I rode, I never saw any rain.  The clouds were low enough to obscure the summit of 13,971' Mt Ouray.  The cloud cover helped keep the long climb up Marshall Pass from getting too hot.  Not too long after my ride, showers and thunder storms moved through the area.

Antora Peak and its neighbors from the upper
part of the Starvation Creek Trail
For a relatively quick ride in the area, I would recommend this route.  The ride covered 23 miles and took about 2.5 hours total of riding time.  The Marshall Pass Road can get busy at times, particularly on weekends, but I don't think the Starvation Creek Trail sees much traffic.  I only saw a few vehicles along the road on my Monday morning ride. The ride offered a good mix of fairly easy climbing with a fun downhill singletrack and most importantly I had a good time.  Despite a fair amount of elevation change, the ride wasn't overly tiring.  This ride seems like it would be nice in the fall with the abundance of aspens along the route, particularly the Marshall Pass Road.

Nice stretch of singtrack through the forest
Another fine stretch of trail