An Icy Climb of Little Spencer Mountain

Beautiful scenery is not hard to find in the Moosehead Lake region of Maine.  The lake, nearly forty miles in length, is framed by numerous sets of mountains.  While the elevation of the mountains aren't that high, several peaks rise dramatically over 2000 feet above the lake. The mountains of Moosehead  stand as landmarks in the region and can be seen from many vantage points around the area. Many of the mountains offer beautiful hiking opportunies.  From their summits, far flung views capture the beauty of the region.  Little Spencer Mountain is one of these peaks.

Little Spencer Mountain and its big brother Big Spencer Mountain stand side by side on the eastern side of the lake.  Both are over 3000 feet in elevation with Little Spencer standing less than 100 feet lower than Big Spencer. They rise more than 2000 feet from flat terrain with no nearby mountains.  As a result they are visible from most of the Moosehead Lake area.  They are easy to identify from as far away as Katahdin.

Little Spencer on left, Big Spencer on right from Lazy Tom Bog

Little Spencer Mountain is one of the most challenging hikes in the Moosehead Lake area.  The first challenge is getting to the trailhead.  From Greenville, you travel nearly twenty miles to the bustling town of Kokadjo, population: not many, according to the sign as you enter the village.  Then it is another ten or so miles on logging roads to the trailhead.  The logging roads aren't labeled so they can be tricky to follow if you are not familiar with the area.  Because of its remoteness, I don't think Little Spencer sees many people, even in summer.

Little Spencer Mountain rising 2000 feet above the valley

Little Spencer is one of  my favorite hikes in the area.  I went there Saturday because I wanted to get there before snow closed the roads for the season.  The area was still mostly snowless Saturday.  The trail to the summit only travels two miles.  It gains 2000 feet of elevation in that distance and traverses sections of tough terrain. With only one trail to the summit, the hike is only four miles roundtrip, but a very challenging four miles.  Not only does the summit have great views, but there are also far flung views along much of the trail.

From the beginning, there was a dusting of snow on the trail.  This made the already challenging hike even tougher.  Not far from the start, the trail traverses sections of boulders.  Under summer conditions these aren't too difficult, but a coating of snow made the rocks slippery.

Icy cliff

Crossing snowy boulders with cliffs in background

After a couple of boulder strewn sections, the trail reaches its most challenging spot.  The trail climbs through a narrow chimney between two sections of cliffs.  To assist hikers, a fixed rope is in place.  Even with the rope, negotiating the passage can be challenging.  To complicate matters, nearly three inches of rain fell a few days earlier followed by a deep freeze.  This section of trail was nearly all ice.  To make matters worse, the rope was frozen in thick ice at places rendering it useless.  After contemplating passage of the chimney, I tried to bushwack around it.  One side of the chimney is a cliff band.  The other side is nearly as steep but has some trees growing from it.  I tried to ascend with the help of the trees but soon reached icy cliffs and was forced to descend.  Finally, with the help of rope, I managed to shimmy up the chimney, wedging my body against the rocks for friction and carefully finding ice free hand holds.

Looking up the chimney

Close Up of ice in the chimney

The rest of the trail to the summit climbs steeply through fields of boulders and follows closely to bands of cliffs at places when not passing through the forest.  The trail levels before reaching the summit.  Despite gaining 2000 feet, there wasn't much more snow at the summit than the trailhead.

Looking across cliff near summit

Kineo 

Close up of Kineo

The view from the summit is grand.  The trees seemed to have grown since my last visit here so the view isn't quite 360 degrees, but still quite impressive.  The entire expanse of Moosehead Lake can be seen with all of its mountains surrounding it.  To the northeast, Katahdin poked its white summit above the clouds.  To the southwest, the Bigelows are visible.  Despite a temperature of 18 degrees at the summit, the sun was shining and the air was calm, allowing me to linger without getting cold.

Clouds over the Lily Bay Range

Looking toward Moosehead Lake over Spencer Pond

Big Moose Mountain in the distance

Looking toward north end of Moosehead

Low clouds passing by, a few flurries fell 

White Cap Range in distance beyond Roach Pond

Katahdin over shoulder of Big Spencer

Katahdin close up

Big Spencer Mountain

Descending proved much more challenging than the climb.  Numerous short section of icy rock needed to be navigated with caution.  Maneuvering down the chimney required much more concentration than climbing up it.  Roots had enough snow to hide them and make for a slippery surprise.  I did manage to make it back to the trailhead with no falls.

View as I descended the trail

View a little further down trail

Looking down a snowy boulder field that the trail passes over

Looking down chimney during descent

I've been to Little Spencer twice in snowy conditions with little problems.  The ice this weekend was almost too difficult to traverse without technical equipment. Crampons were almost necessary to make it through the chimney.  I almost bailed when I got to the chimney and it took a while to make it through.  Despite the added challenge, I'm glad I made it to the summit because the view never disappoints. 

Hiking the White Cap Range- Solitude in the 100 Mile Wilderness

White Cap Mountain is located on the Appalachian Trail in the heart of the 100 Mile Wilderness. Because it's the first time north bound thru hikers get an unobstructed view of Katahdin, it is a memorable mountain to many thru hikers.  The views are quite impressive in all directions. I am also drawn to this mountain since I see it nearly everyday when I drive to my house.  In the winter, its white summit stands out prominently among the other mountains in the area.   

Getting to White Cap is not an easy feat.  Because of its location in the 100 Mile Wilderness, road approaches are somewhat difficult.  The shortest approach to White Cap from the road is via the White Brook Trail.  Depending on road conditions and the vehicle, a round trip hike of 5 miles is possible to the summit and back.  This involves more than 16 miles of travel over increasingly rough dirt roads that can be difficult to follow on a map it you are not familiar with the area. The summit can be reached by the AT from the north on a 6 mile round trip hike but the drive to the trail is even further away from civilization.  From the south on the AT, it is nearly a 12 mile hike to the summit from the nearest road.

I have hiked to White Cap a couple times via the White Brook Trail.  This hike is straightforward but not worth the abuse to my vehicle.  I haven't been to White Cap in about four years and wanted to revisit.  I have not hiked the other summits on the AT in the White Cap Range since my AT thru hike in 1999 and wanted to hike them again as well.  After looking at some maps, I found a loop that would take me over all four summits of the range by connecting the AT with other trails and logging roads.  The route would avoid driving the worst dirt roads. 

My hike would cover more than 20 miles.  If you have read my blog in the past, I enjoy the occasional long day hike, so I was up for the challenge.  To add to the challenge, I was faced with a short November day and the start of winter conditions.  Saturday's forecast sounded promising so I got an early start and headed to the mountains.

I  started my hike near High Bridge about 710AM.  High Bridge is a drive in camping area.  I followed a logging road about two miles to its end at Hay Brook where there are a few campsites.  A short side trip upstream along Hay Brook took me to Hay Brook Falls, a scenic waterfall with a drop of about 30 feet.   After stone-stepping across Hay Brook, the Pleasant River Tote Road begins.  The Pleasant River Tote Road is a relic from logging days and is now a trail.  After .75 miles, the AT is reached.  With the exception of a short detour at Gulf Hagas, I was on the AT for the next 11 miles.  This was also the lowest point of the trip at 700 or so feet in elevation.

Hay Brook Falls

The trail stays relatively low in elevation for a while.  Where the AT section starts, it passes through an area of old growth forest called The Hermitage containing very large pines.  In a little over a mile I arrived at the trail to Gulf Hagas containing numerous waterfalls.  I made a brief detour to Screw Auger Falls, just a short distance from the AT.  The trail meandered with little significant climbing as it followed Gulf Hagas Brook.  As I hike higher and deeper into the mountains, a dusting of snow started to cover the trail.  The trail reached a lean-to where I stopped for a bite to eat.

Screw Auger Falls

Screw Auger Falls upper falls

10-12 foot cascade on Gulf Hagas Brook

Snow starting to cover the trail

After the lean-to, the trail finally started to climb steeply.  Gulf Hagas Mountain is the first mountain climbed in the White Cap Range.  At 2683', Gulf Hagas Mountain is the runt of the range.  Despite its lowly elevation, it is probably the most interesting summit after White Cap.  Some partial views of the surrounding mountains are seen through the trees from the higher reaches of the mountain.

Boggy upper reaches of Gulf Hagas Brook

Gulf Hagas Mtn summit

West Peak coming into view

The AT continued over West Peak and Hay Mountain.  The mountains became progressively higher as I hiked.  Trail crews did an impressive job building stone steps on the steeper sections of trail. The trail never seemed to steep compared to most other mountain ranges on the AT in Maine.  West Peak and Hay Mountain have wooded summits with very few views beyond the thick forest.

Stone stairs climbing West Peak

Hay Mtn summit

After 11 miles on the AT, I reached White Cap.  At 3654', White Cap is the highest mountain in the 100 Mile Wilderness.  It's the highest summit on the AT between Katahdin and the Bigelows, a distance of 180 or so miles.  White Cap's summit has wonderful views.  The southern half of the summit is completely exposed and bare.  Scrub covers the top of the peak while the northern part has another open area.  Looking to the north on  clear day, Katahdin dominates the horizon.  Parts of Moosehead Lake are visible to the west as well as most of the higher peaks in the area including the Spencers, Lily Bay Range, and Big Moose.  To the south, the Barren-Chairback Range dominates the view.  In the distance to the southwest, the Bigelows are easily identifiable.  With a temperature in the mid 20s F and windchills dropping below 0F with gusts, I didn't linger more than 15 minutes at the summit.

White Cap summit, book elevation is 10 foot higher

West Peak and Gulf Hagas Mtn in foreground, Baker Mtn to right, Moosehad Lake just beyond Baker (Click on pic for clearer view)

Bigelow Range is the tall peaks on the horizon in the center (click on pic for clearer view)

Looking south over Big Spruce Mtn.

Saddleback Mtn beyond the shoulder of Little Spruce Mtn

Big and Little Spencer Mtns beyond Roach Ponds

Looking north over West Branch Ponds toward endless lakes

I retraced the AT for a short distance before descending to the valley.  I descended on a discontinued trail that eventually reaches the White Brook Trail.  The trail, which I have used in the past, has become quite overgrown at places.  The trail had occasional old blazes in blue and white.  It must have been an old section of AT at one time.  At one time a fire tower stood on White Cap.  Perhaps this was originally the old trail to access the tower.  I soon reached the White Brook Trail.

Last view descending back down White Cap toward Baker Mtn

Descending discontinued trail in a heavily eroded section

Very overgrown section of discontinued trail.  I was full of snow passing through here.

The White Brook Trail ends at an old logging road.  The logging road was overgrown and a little difficult to follow at a couple of spots.  Eventually the logging road became more prominent before reaching High Bridge near my car in a few miles.  Along the logging road there were some good views looking back at White Cap.

Looking back at White Cap's exposed southern face

I reached my car right around 3PM, almost 8 hours since I started.  The hike was about 21 miles.  For the distance, the hike wasn't extremely difficult.  Several miles of the hike were on logging roads which allowed for quick travel.  While I gained over 3000 feet of elevation, the elevation gain was relatively gradual compared to other Maine mountains.  The cold and snow however added a little challenge to the hike.  With a brisk windchill, I didn't care to linger in one place too long.  The snow, while not more than a dusting, covered most of the trail. Because of the snow, roots and rocks along the trail were more slippery than normal.

Despite seeing several cars in the High Bridge area, I didn't see anyone the entire time.  All of these cars were most likely hunters.  I did see a few deer early on which made uneasy with hunters in the area.  Because of the snow I saw nearly endless tracks.  Most were snowshoe hare or squirrel.  I did see a few cat tracks, most likely bobcat.  Numerous deer, moose, and coyote tracks were seen in the snow along the logging roads.

Although the forecast called for a clear day, most of the trip was under mostly cloudy skies.  A few short snow showers fell along the way.  Because of the clouds, the views from White Cap were a little obscured.  The visibility was decent most directions but unfortunately Katahdin's summit was in the clouds and obscured by snow showers.

Borestone Mountain

At 1981 feet in elevation, Borestone Mountain is not among the highest mountains in Maine.  In fact there are more than 400 summits in Maine that are higher. Despite Borestone's lowly elevation, its rocky and bare summits provides grand views in all directions, giving it the feel of a higher mountain.

The summit is gained just over 2 miles.  Because of the short distance and big views, Borestone Mountain is a very popular hiking destination.  It is also a prominent landmark in the area.  Borestone's rugged profile is visible from many vantage points in the area.

Borestone is a fairly quick trip from my house.  I can leave my house, hike to the summits, and return home in about three hours.  Because of this, I sometimes go to Borestone Mountain if I am looking for a quick outing with great scenery.  After taking care of my morning chores on our farm on Monday, I had a couple hours to take advantage of a beautiful fall day.  With darkness coming early this time of year, Borestone Mountain seemed to fit the bill for a quick mountain escape.

Borestone Mountain is in Elliotsville, Maine on land owned by the Maine Audubon Society.  From the trailhead, hikers have two options.  They can hike the Base Trail or the access road.  I usually choose the access road.  It is slightly longer but more straightforward.  The Base Trail and access road meet just before reaching the Visitor Center on the shore of Sunrise Pond, just over a mile from the start.  During the summer, there is a caretaker and interactive displays in the Visitor Center.  In the off season the Visitor Center is closed.

Looking over Sunrise Pond at the West Peak of Borestone

From the Visitor Center, the hike becomes more strenuous as it climbs the Summit Trail to Borestone Mountiain's two summit.  After passing the pond, the trail begins climbing steeply.  Several spots on the trail are climbed via rock steps.  About a half mile from the Visitor Center, the trail traverse the first section of steep rock below the cliffs of the West Peak.  A few sections have iron rungs and railings to help climb the steep rock.  After .7 miles of hiking from the Visitor Center, the West Peak of Borestone is reached.  From the summit, the 360 degree views are far reaching.

Rock Steps along the way

Scrambling is required as you near the summit

Rungs and railings to help hikers in steep stretches

Looking down on Sunrise, Midday, and Sunset Ponds below the West Peak

Looking toward East Peak from West Peak

Leaving the summit, the trail drops slightly over rocky terrain before climbing the higher East Peak of Borestone in just .3 miles.  The 360 degree views from the East Peak are slightly better with the higher elevation.  Immediately at the foot of Borestone is Lake Onawa, 1500 feet below.  Directly across the lake stands Barren Mountain with Barren Ledges and Slide prominently visible.  The Lily Bay Range and Big Moose Mountain are quite prominent in the Moosehead Lake region.  Beyond the Moosehead Lake mountains, Boundary Bald Mountain is easily seen just a few miles from the Quebec border.  The Bigelow Range's sets of twin peaks stand out to the southwest with Sugarloaf, Abraham, and Saddleback just beyond the Bigelows.  Low terrain dominates the landscape to the south and east with distance peaks visible beyond the Penobscot Valley.  On the East Peak there is a sign that shows what mountains are visible on the horizon.  To return to the trailhead, just retrace your path down the mountain.

Barren Slide and Ledges with Baker Mountain in background

Close up of Slides and Ledges

Looking over Lake Onawa toward Barren Mountain

Looking back to West Peak with Big Moose Mtn in distance and Boundary Bald Mtn to its right on the far horizon just a few miles from the Quebec border

The Bigelows are the furthest peaks visible in the middle (click on pic for better view)

Sign on summit labeling the landscape 

Another look over Lake Onawa toward Benson Pond and Benson Mountain

One last view before dropping of the summit

With such great scenery, I don't go to Borestone as often as I should for how close it is to my house.  In the summer it can get crowded and there is a small fee to hike the trails.  However, in the off season, there are rarely any other hikers.  On my hike, I saw just one other hiker on the access road. I was lucky enough to have beautiful blue skies without a single cloud.

For experienced hikers, Borestone is a great place to get in a quick hike with big views.  The summit feels much higher than it is with its far flung views.  For less experienced hikers, Borestone is a good place to hike before tackling a more ambitious hike on a bigger mountain.  The hike climbs about 1100 feet and tackles some rocky terrain giving the feel of a bigger mountain without covering huge mileage.  On a clear day, nobody will be let down with the summit vistas.

See http://tomcatoutdoors.blogspot.com/2013/06/kayaking-lake-onawa.html for pictures of Borestone from an earlier trip kayaking on Lake Onawa.