Barren-Chairback Marathon Hike

The past couple of weeks I have been taking it easy and staying close to home.  I ran a couple times, cycled with Puma, and took one of my dogs on an easier hike on the logging roads beyond my house.  I avoided going too far into the backcountry since showers and thunderstorms were a regular threat.  Sunday's weather was beautiful and I was ready to hit the mountains.

Every year I try to embark on a few ambitious endurance day trips.  For example, last month I hiked the Presidential Traverse.  I was ready for another hike to push my limits.  This time it was closer to home in the 100 Mile Wilderness.

One of the closest places to hike for me is Barren Mountain.  Barren Mountain isn't the highest mountain around but it does involve climbing 2000 feet to reach its summit and it offers several good view points.
Barren Mountain is the first peak in the Barren-Chairback range.  This range is the first set of mountains hiking north on the Appalachian Trail (AT) in the 100 Mile Wilderness.  The range consists of five mountains: Barren Mtn, Fourth Mtn, Third Mtn, Columbus Mtn, and Chairback Mtn.

A traverse of the Barren-Chairback Range is about 17 miles and involves 5000 vertical feet of climbing.  This is a decent overnight trip and a challenging day hike.  One big problem with this trip is getting back to the beginning.  Both trailheads are on logging roads that are nearly two hours apart, making a car spot difficult.

I had a solution to this problem.  At the north end of the traverse is a new trail on AMC property that heads to one of the AMC lodges.  From the lodge another trail leads to the AT about half way through near Third Mountain.  I figured I could hike the traverse on the AT and follow these two trails on AMC land back to the AT, then retrace the AT to the start of my hike.  Looking over the guide books, I was looking at roughly 27 miles.  On Sunday I decided to give it a go.

I arrived at the Otter Pond trailhead below Barren Mountain and started hiking about 7am.  The longest climb and biggest elevation gain of the Barren-Chairback Range starts here.  A good chunk of the climb takes you to Barren Slide and Barren Ledges.  Both of these spots offer good views.  Beyond the Ledges, the trail levels for nearly two miles before reaching Barren's summit.  At 2670 feet, it's the high point of the range.  An old fire tower frame at the top can be climbed with caution to take in 360 degree views.  Another mile beyond the summit, a side trail leads to Cloud Pond, a 16 acre pond near the top of the mountain that is very remote and sees very little traffic besides long distance AT hikers.

Looking toward Barren Mountain

Lake Onawa and Borestone Mountain from Barren Ledges

Lily Bay Mountains from Barren

Looking back toward Barren Ledges from Barren's summit

I have hiked to Cloud Pond several times.  Beyond this point I haven't hiked since my AT thru hike in 1999.  My goal was to run the flatter parts of the trail and areas that terrain allowed.  A few factors put running to a minimum.  The trail was very muddy and rooty, making for treacherous footing and a risk of injury.  The trail was steeper than I remembered which burns too much energy over a long hike.  I ran when I could but I was limited on runable stretches.

Several points of interest are along the trail.  Fourth Mountain Bog sits between Barren and Fourth Mountains.  A stretch of bog bridges passes through the bog protecting the fragile plants from hikers.  Fourth Mountain's summit is forested and lacks views but along the way are several open ledges, mostly looking north into the White Cap Range and Lily Bay Range.  Third Mountain has several of these open ledges.  Columbus's summit is mostly wooded but Chairback Mountain has a long stretch of open ledge with great views to the north.  Reaching Chairback Mountain put me in more familiar territory as I hiked this mountain numerous times.

Bog Bridges in Fourth Mountain Bog

Long Pond and Lily Bay Range

Third Mountain view

Looking toward Saddleback 

Saddleback and White Cap Range

White Cap Range

East Chairback Pond below

Perhaps the nicest feature of the range is its ponds.  Cloud Pond, which I mentioned is the first you reach.  It is the highest and smallest.  It also has the most remote feel to it.  AT hikers are the only ones who see it.  A lean-to sits near the shore of Cloud Pond.  West Chairback Pond is the next pond.  It is the second largest.  There are several spots to camp on its shore.  I'm not sure how they got there, but there are several canoes there.  It seems like it would quite a long haul to get them there.  Finally, near the end of the traverse is East Chairback Pond.  This is the largest of the three and has plenty of spots to camp on its shores.  Across the pond is a nice view of Columbus Mountain.  Blueberries were ripe and abundant on the banks as well.

Cloud Pond

West Chairback Pond

East Chairback Pond

The Henderson Brook Trail leaves the AT at the end of the traverse.  This trail leads to the Gorham Chairback Lodge by Long Pond on the AMC's 100 Mile Wilderness property.  This is a short trail that follows the brook and a nice break from the mountainous terrain.  I stopped in at the lodge to refill my water before hitting the Third Mountain Trail.  This trail climbs 1000 or so feet back to the ridge of the Barren-Chairback Range on the AT just below Third Mountain.

This climb is where I began to feel the tiredness settle in.  By the time I reached the AT again I hiked over 20 miles.  This long winding climb slowed me down.  From the AT I retraced my steps back to the beginning.  I reached the first open ledge with views toward Barren Mountain, or at least what I thought was Barren.  I was looking at Fourth Mountain instead.  I didn't remember how steep and rocky the trail was from earlier in the day.  The climb wore me out.

Fourth Mountain looming ahead

Typical Maine AT, straight up the rocks

Beyond Forth Mountain, the going wasn't too bad.  Fortunately the trail gained far less elevation and was less steep heading back up Barren Mountain.  From the summit of Barren I called Puma to let her know I was running a little behind so she wouldn't worry about me.  Beyond Barren the trail is in good shape and I could run much of the way to Barren Ledges.  I did run out of water in my Camelbak somewhere around Barren's summit.  This wasn't a major problem since I was close enough to the end of the hike and had plenty in my car.  10 hours and twelve minutes after I started, I reached my car.

Parting shot leaving Barren

I did have one encounter on the trail that I wish I could explain.  Shortly after Third Mountain I caught a glimpse of the back half of an animal from the middle of the body back and its long tail.  At first glance I assumed it was a dog and figured I would reach it and the people very quickly.  I never did reach anyone.  It was fairly large and tan colored, with a long tail.  It was not the kind of terrain for a stray dog to wander without seeking food from people.  I'm an agnostic (skeptical, but believe they may exist) when it comes to mountain lions in Maine, but when I thought about it, what I saw fit the description of a mountain lion.  When I got back to my house I looked up images of mountain lions and I still can't rule out the possibility.  I'm not saying that's what I saw, I'm simply saying I had an unidentifiable wildlife sighting.

When I got home, I looked over my books and determined the hike was over 29 miles.  Only a couple times when I thru hiked the AT did I ever hike longer in a day.  This was further than I thought it would be.  The elevation gain for the trip was about 6000 feet.  I felt more beat on this hike than the Presidential Traverse which was about 23 miles and 9500 vertical feet.  Part of this exhaustion may have been the lack of water the last couple miles, or the 29 miles.  My legs were wobbly the rest of the night.

The Barren-Chairback Range doesn't see much traffic beyond long distance backpackers.  It is remote and not as lofty as some of the other parts of the AT in Maine.  The entire traverse has a remote feel.  The thick spruce forest along most of the traverse blocks the sun and keeps the air cool and comfortable for hiking, even on the hottest day.

Mt Kineo: Hiking and Kayaking Moosehead Lake

Moosehead Lake is one of Maine's beautiful attractions.  Perhaps the most outstanding feature in the Moosehead Lake region is Mt Kineo.  Kineo rises nearly 800 feet from the middle of the lake with it's sheer cliffs dominating the view of the mountain.  Kineo sits on a narrow peninsula directly across from the town of Rockwood, about a mile from the town.  At approximately 1800 feet it isn't a tall mountain, but its dramatic rise from the lake is quite a sight.

Approaching Kineo close to the Rockwood shore

Mt Kineo is justifiably one of the top attractions in the Moosehead area.  The mountain is one of the top landmarks in the region and is visible from many vantage points.  Perhaps the best view of the mountain is from the shore near Rockwood.  Getting to the mountain however takes some planning.  It is reachable by land, but this a difficult undertaking following a network of logging roads that can be confusing and in some instances in rough shape.  The other way to access Kineo is by water.  From Rockwood, would-be hikers can hire a ferry to travel across the lake to the base of the mountain.  Others choose to use their own boat.

Believe or not, this rises nearly 800 feet above the water

I hiked Kineo on one other occasion.  Last summer I paddled my kayak across the lake to the base of the mountain and hiked to the summit.  The sky was quite hazy that day and views were somewhat limited.  I wanted to return on a clearer day.  This time Puma came along since Moosehead Lake is one of her favorite places.  The weather Wednesday morning seemed promising so we made the trip to Rockwood.

We brought our kayaks along and headed to the base of the mountain.  Moosehead Lake is a very large lake.  It runs nearly 40 miles long and a dozen or so miles wide at its widest.  Between Rockwood and Kineo the lake is at its narrowest, about a mile wide.  Because the lake is large it is subject to some windy and rough conditions.  The northern part of the lake is vast and north winds tend to funnel through the narrows at Rockwood making rough conditions.  On this morning the winds were blowing a strong and steady wind and making our paddle a challenge.

The paddle across the lake, even though only a mile, gave us a good beating.  Although rough, it wasn't the roughest conditions we paddled on Moosehead Lake.  However the waves and wind direction put us at a strong disadvantage.  Waves high enough to reach the cockpit were normal and our necessary direction of travel put the waves almost directly perpendicular to us.  It seemed like a long mile paddling full bore just to keep the kayaks going the right direction.  We made it across and stashed our boats and headed off for the summit.

The trail starts by following  the top of cliff

There are three trails to the summit of Kineo.  The range from roughly a mile and a half to four miles.  Puma and I climbed via the Indian Trail.  This is the most direct route with the best views.  It follows the top of Kineo's cliffs for part of the way with lots of views over Moosehead Lake.  Although shorter, it also the most strenuous of the trails rising nearly 800 feet in less than a mile with many sections of steep rock to navigate.  From the point we stashed our kayaks, I figured the hike to summit was somewhere just under 1.5 miles.

A very hazy view toward Big Moose enroute to Kineo

Overlooking the golf course and looking south on Moosehead Lake

This hike, although short took its toll on Puma.  She hiked many higher mountains and longer distances but this one wore her down.  The hike itself probably would not have been so bad had it not been for the exhausting paddle.  We made it to summit albeit a little slow.

A tired Puma on the fire tower

Kineo's views are far reaching.  On the summit a fire tower rises above the trees offering 360 degree views. The clear morning sky unfortunately became quite hazy by the time we reached the summit in the afternoon. The views unfortunately greatly diminished.  We still had 360 degree views, just not as far reaching as I hoped.  We still had nice views.  Little Kineo and the Spencers dominate the view to the east.  Rockwood, the Moose River, and Brassua Lake are close to the west.  The Lily Bay Range and Big Moose Range line either side of the lake looking south.  The northern reaches of the lake are easily seen to the north.  I'm sure on a clearer day Katahdin would be easily visible but with the haze we were out of luck.

Looking toward the Lily Bay Range

Big and Little Spencer

The steamship Katahdin passing by Kineo while giving a scenic lake tour

After climbing the tower and taking in the views we returned down the mountain.  The descent went quite a bit quicker for Puma than the climb.  The paddle back however, was another story.  The wind picked up and made for even choppier paddling on the return to Rockwood.  By the time we finally reached the shore, an already weary Puma was exhausted and seemingly dehydrated.  During the paddle, the conditions were rough enough that we couldn't stop to drink while fighting to stay on track and stable.  My body can take the abuse but Puma is more of a casual adventurer and the combination of the hike on top of the challenging paddle pushed her to her limit.  Besides the paddling and hiking, we were also lucky enough to see a young bear cross the road near Rockwood on the drive.  Because of the rough water, I couldn't take any pictures while paddling so the pictures from the water in this blog are from last year's trip to Kineo.

Winged Moose statue outside of Rockwood, ME

The Owl- Hiking One of Maine's Overlooked Gems

I have hiked in Baxter State Park nearly two dozen times now.  A majority of these involved a climb of Katahdin which is Maine's highest peak.  Most people visiting the park focus on Katahdin.  Many of the other peaks in the park are overlooked by visitors.  One of these peaks in The Owl.

The Owl was on my radar for a while.  The J Man and I headed to Baxter State Park Sunday with intent to hike either The Owl or South Turner, another overlooked mountain in the park.  When the parking lot for South Turner was full when we arrived we set off for The Owl.

The Owl, at 3700 or so feet is a stunning peak.  It is located just about two miles from Katahdin as the bird flies and sits across Witherle Ravine from the Hunt Spur of Katahdin.  Hikers approaching Katahdin via the Hunt Trail (AT) have The Owl at there shoulder.  The side of The Owl most people see is a large cliff band that with a little imagination, resembles an owl.  The summit of the peak is open and offers views in all directions.

From an earlier hike, The Owl from the Hunt Trail.  The rocky mountain in the foreground.

The trail to The Owl starts at Katahdin Stream Campground.  For the first mile it follows the Hunt Trail before splitting off onto The Owl Trail.  The trail climbs gradually  most of the way.  The trail doesn't get too steep until well over two miles into the trip when hands are needed to climb at a few of the steeper spots.  Along the way views into the ravine and to the Hunt Spur are sporadic.  Eventually the vegetation thins, taking in views toward Katahdin while looking across the sheer cliffs of The Owl.  Most of the way the roar of Katahdin Stream can be heard.  As you enter the scrubbier vegetation high on the peak, waterfalls are visible in the distance dropping into the ravine. 3.3 miles and over 2600 vertical feet later the summit is reached.  In a few weeks, the summit will have a nice crop of blueberries.

One of the first views toward Katahdin

Looking across Owl's cliffs toward Katahdin

Looking into Witherle Ravine

"Balancing Rock"

Indian Pipes along the trail

Looking toward the Tableland

Waterfall below in the ravine

The views from the summit are impressive.  In the distance to the south, the peaks of the 100 Mile Wilderness are on the horizon.  Closer at the base of the mountain are Kidney, Daicey, and numerous other ponds.  The mountains around Moosehead Lake are visible to the southwest.  It was somewhat hazy today and I could easily see as far as Big Moose Mountain near the southern end of Moosehead Lake.  To the west are other nearby peaks in Baxter State Park are in sight including Barren, Coe, The Brothers, Doubletop, and Moose Bosom just beyond the park boundary with Chesuncook Lake in the distance.  The north is dominated by the Northwest Plateau, Hamlin Peak, and Katahdin.  The Hunt Spur is immediately east with the lakes heading toward Millinocket visible beyond the Hunt Spur.

Barren Mountain in the foreground, Doubletop and Moose Bosom to left and Coe just behind Barren

Hamlin Peak and Northwest Plateau

Another look in ravine, the slash is Katahdin Stream flowing down from Thoreau Spring

Looking over ridge of Owl over Daicey and Kidney Ponds area

The Brothers and Fort Mountain

I highly recommend hiking The Owl to anyone visiting Baxter State Park.  On weekends in the summer, Katahdin can be a zoo.  As we looked over to the Hunt Trail we could see numerous groups hiking to Katahdin and the sign in sheet at the trailhead was full of people going to Katahdin.  We saw only one other group on the trail to The Owl.  It is a scenic summit that you can have to yourself.  At less than 7 miles round trip it will leave you with a little to spare.

Me sitting on "Balancing Rock"

Me sitting on edge of Witherle Ravine below The Owl

Moxie Bald Mountain Blueberry Feast

At 2630' Moxie Bald Mountain is not very high.  There are 196 higher mountains in Maine alone.  It stands in relatively lonely country near Bingham and The Forks, Maine.  If it wasn't crossed by the Appalachian Trail, it probably wouldn't see very much traffic.  In fact even with the AT crossing it, it still doesn't see much traffic.  Apart from long distance hikers on the AT, it appears that this place is seldom visited.

The hike to its summit is moderately challenging but relatively tame compared to Maine's bigger peaks.  The summit of the mountain is fairly open with good views in most directions.  I have been here twice before.  The first time was in 1999 when I hiked the AT.  Last December I hiked it for a second time with most of the trail covered with snow and ice.

Rock overhang on Appalachian Trail

Another rock formation along AT

Looking back down AT near summit of Moxie Bald

When I crossed Moxie Bald Mountain on my AT thru hike, one memory comes to mind.  The blueberries were abundant.  Most of the low vegetation on its broad summit consists of blueberry bushes.  I leisurely crossed the summit stopping to grab handfuls of blueberries during my thru hike.  That memory is what inspired me to hike the mountain again this weekend.

The J Man went along on the hike and we both brought containers along to pick berries.  Shortly before reaching the summit, the trail begins traversing terrain with few trees.  Almost immediately we found blueberries.  We stopped at the more concentrated clusters to gather berries and would move on to the next cluster when we depleted the ripe berries in an area.

One of many clusters of blueberries with many more to ripen

 About a mile beyond the summit is a side trail to the north peak of Moxie Bald Mountain.  I never hiked here before and didn't know too much about this other summit.  The only information I had was that the side trail was about 3/4 of a mile long and there is abundant blueberries in season.  This was no lie.  There were huge clusters of ripe berries frequently along the trail.  We both filled our Cool Whip containers well before the summit.  After our containers were filled we continued to pick more to eat on the spot at the patches with heavier concentrations.  I never seen so many wild blueberries in my many years of hiking.

My bounty of hand picked wild mountain Maine blueberries

The berries weren't the only attraction.  It was a beautiful day and the views from Moxie Bald Mountain are quite nice and far reaching.  Little did I know they got better at the north peak.  The north peak consists of a nearly mile long open, rocky summit with 360 degree views.  Judging by the lack of wear on the trail, very few people venture to this peak.  AT hikers usually don't bother with a 1.5 mile detour for an understated view and the locals usually summit the main peak and turn around.  Any guidebook with the description of hiking Moxie Bald barely mentions the north peak.  The trailhead to this area is a 20 mile round trip on a dirt road. I'm guessing that deters others that might consider hiking here.

Approaching the summit of the north peak

I was pleasantly surprised at the far-reaching and unobstructed views that went from Katahdin to the peaks in the Grafton Notch area, not too far from the New Hampshire border.  Nearly the entire 280 miles of Appalachian Trail in Maine.  The peaks of the Bigelows are fairly close and unmistakable.  Just past the Bigelows, the trails of Sugarloaf Ski Area are visible.  Immediately to the north are the peaks of Moosehead Lake, including, Big and Little Moose, the Spencers, and the Lily Bay Range.  Just east of the Moosehead is all of the 100 Mile Wilderness peaks.  To the northwest mountains on the Canadian border can be seen. Several ponds are visible just below the mountain and countless other summits.  This area, particularly the north peak is great hidden secret of Maine mountains and a good place to find solitude and in season, amazing wild blueberries.  With only modest elevation gains and just over 7 miles of hiking, this hike is short enough that you can hike leisurely and enjoy the views and the berries.

Bald Mountain Pond

Looking over open summit toward Moosehead Lake area mountains

Moxie Pond with Bigelows in background

Big Moose on left and the Spencers in distance

Looking across vast open summit on Moxie Bald's north peak

Looking toward Moxie Bald from the north peak

Mountains east of Moosehead Lake region